The Ocean Cruising Club (OCC) Arctic Rally fleet cast-off from Bergen promptly at 09:00 with a fabulous forecast for suntanning but a light headwind. We motored along, selected routes through narrow passes between islands. Glenn quickly acquired his sea legs as we admired the views of hamlets along the shorelines. As we approached the final destination for the day, we paused to fish and caught three pollock within minutes. We kept one of good size; it was sectioned and plopped into a boiling pot of saltwater (per Jan’s recipe), simmered for 8-minutes, and served at a sunny cockpit table just after we’d set the anchor at Fedje.
Brian and I awoke to Jan’s voice on the VHF at 06:45 to report the weather forecast. We dozed promptly afterward and awoke at 07:00 to the sound of our neighbor, S/V Quench, raising their anchor. “Do you think they are serious about a 7am departure?” I croaked. I peeked outside and saw a line of boats exiting Fedje’s harbour. “I’m starting the coffee,” I determined, “we’ve got to head out!” Brian and I made our way directly to the deck without waking Glenn. We prepared to raise the anchor just as S/V Jenny veered out of the channel to swing past us at anchor and confirm we were OK. Neither of us had seen 07:00 for weeks! That morning we’d established that when the departure time is set for “around” the pre-determined time that we’d better be prepared for a mass exodus as soon as the clock strikes the hour! We had a long day of motor sailing, and would have had an opportunity for the spinnaker if we hadn’t have filled the cockpit, dodger, and lifelines with sheets, mattress pad, and comforter…sigh! After breakfast, Glenn and I were busy freshwater rinsing all of the forward cabin bedding. I had doused the bed with saltwater (A.K.A. lava) when I’d washed down the deck the day prior and unknowingly sloshed saltwater through an open porthole. Just another day living on a boat! In the meantime, while we rotated the drying bedding, we’d spotted dolphins, and marveled at fjords.
At Svanøy, the OCC fleet had the pleasure of touring Svanøy Røykeri AS; a family owned/operated processing company that produces smoked salmon. We had a wonderful presentation about the hand processed fish, smoking technique, and handmade marinades produced from resources found on the island of Svanøy. A sample of smoked salmon completed the tour, and it was absolutely delicious! We added a few flavors of smoked salmon (traditional, pepper, and garlic) to our ship’s stores to savor again throughout the trip. Thanks to Svanøy Røykeri AS for a wonderful tour!