Lille Molle is described in our guidebook as “a beautiful, lonely harbour,” which to us sounded very enticing! It was, in fact, beautiful! But it was not lonely the evening we stayed because we were joined by our friends Alison and Peter aboard S/Y Upshot. The fact we were both anchoring at Lille Molle became a bit of a joke because after the Arctic Rally festivities had ended, I think we were both seeking a bit of seclusion. Detour and Upsot raced for Lille Molle, as any two sailboats within viewing distance of one another would do, and at the end of the day there was ample space for us both to anchor in a shallow, sandy bottom of brilliantly blue, clear water.Brian and I went for a dinghy excursion. We spotted crabs, fish, urchins, various types of seaweed, kelp, and bits of coral below the water’s surface. Above us, sea eagles circled high in the clouds while juvenile sea eagles watched from their hilltop perches.
Ashore, fragrant fields of wildflowers were a’buzz with bumblebees. A few homes scattered the shoreline but aside from us and Upshot, not a soul stirred. We anticipated a peaceful evening and a good night’s sleep.
Lille Molle surprised us, however, with our first experience of fallvind. We thought we’d have protection from the towering peaks above, but instead we fell victims to a katabatic falling wind or fallvind in Norwegian. In-between periods of calm, gusts of strong wind swept down the mountainside and over the anchorage. The forecast was light in general, thank goodness, and the fallvind was not dangerous but it was irritating enough for an unpleasant night. Each time a fallvind would strike, Detour would heel to one side with halyards flapping and rigging vibrating vigorously. Then, we’d sit upright and all would be calm again just long enough to fall asleep until…”WHOOSH!”